RIO, part 1.

 

Rio is a true gem. It has been attracting visitors from all over the world for a long time with open arms and I finally made my way here, too.

Unconsciously, my head was filled with and playing bossa nova tunes while I was walking the streets of this magical city, blessed with divine geography. It is just like THE song says :…

I live in a tropical country blessed by God
And beautiful by nature, what a beauty

This song, I read, is one of the representations of Tropicália, a cultural movement created in the late 1960s in Brasil, a sort of remedy or an escape from the harsh reality of the military rule. For me, it was always a representation of a tropical paradise far away, so unreachable from my little Poland town, dark and burried underneath the snow for half a year.

Here is a short list of some of the best spots in my favourite neighbourhoods, located close enough from one another to make a great 1-2 days itinerary for all city lovers:

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TOP SIGHTS AND EXPERIENCES

I guess five days was not enough for me to discover all that Rio has so this is not a definite guide to this so called Marvellous City. But here are some of my favourites:

Where to stay: Rio is used to receiving tourists all year round and there’s plenty accommodation options for all pockets. I like staying a few days in a hotel and than moving to an airbnb to get this local feel.

Favourite neighbourhoods: Ipanema. It is one of the nicest areas in Rio, perfect for taking this perfect pictures with Dos Irmãos at sunset. One block away from the beach you will find leafy streets, shops (mainly with the world’s best beachwear!!) and juice- sandwich bars where all the cheerful crowd flocks straight from the beach. If you’re lucky you’ll catch a live bossa nova at one of the quioskos.

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  • shopping: Osklen, Farm, Lenny, Av Henrique Dumont for design and concept stores, the coolest 3 storey Havaianas store
  • Toca do Vinicius– a tiny shop with all things bossa nova
  • hotels: Ipanema Inn, Fasano, Arpoador Inn (it has a lovely patio, great for stopping by after walking by the beach to the Arpoador rock)
  • restaurants: Zaza Tropical Bistro (lots of veggie options, probably my favourite restaurant in Rio), Rancho Portugues (the portions are massive, highly recommended for bacalao fans)

Copacabana: the beach and its adjacent neighbourhood is right next to Ipanema (divided by the Arpoador Rock from where you can get some really awesome views), however its feel is much different. while Ipanema is all pretty and the crowd is bronzed and beautiful, Copacabana is more «rough»- but it’s still walkable, even at night, although the hotel concierge will tell you it’s not. I guess coming from Mexico the area seemed totally normal to us, just more «popular». Copacabana is located close to the Sugarloaf.

  • Hotel and spa: Belmond Copacabana– a Rio classic, and the prettiest hotel in the area. It was one of the first beachside hotels in the city, attracting celebrities from all around the world. It’s indulgent spa treatments are legendary (try amazon clay body mask).
  • Restaurants: Azumi (japanese. Sit at the bar), Baalbeck (tiny middle-eastern snacks shop, totally local). It’s great to taste those international influences!

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Copacabana is also where you’ll find the iconic mosaic promenade designed by Roberto Burle Marx. Completed in 1970, the design is inspired by 19th century Lisbon streets and and reflecting the waves.

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Leblon: very chic, with top quality restaurants and lively botecos lined along Rua Dias Ferreira. 

  • retaurants: Sushi Leblon– an absolute highlight for the ambience and food. Sit at the bar and watch the beautiful cariocas. Vegan options available.
  • Momo Ice cream: quality gelato

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  • bars: Botecos!! One of my favourite things about Brasil are those packed bars with people spilling out on the street to continue drinking. waiters walk around with beers and deep-fried snacks, grab as many as you’d like and pay later. Try Boteco Belmonte or Jobi.
  • shopping: Design Rio shopping mall– all shops are mainly womenswear. this is THE place to get dresses for the beach or a dinner date or a wedding, expect lots of prints and shapes you won’t find anywhere else in the world. Rio is the capital of summer designs.

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Breakfast & café: there are 2-3 French style bakeries recommended to try in Rio, although for me, nothing can beat the ubiquitous lanches- sandwich/juice bars. My favourite things to order are pāo de queijo, avocado smoothie (it’s sweet!), pāo con ovo, and pingado. So good and so simple!! Oh, don’t forget about açai 🙂

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Other street food or easy options are: sweet or savoury tapioca sandwiches (I loved the cheese and guava filling), cheese and banana or pinapple sandwich, a plate of papaya served cut in two with a spoon, and fruit juices so thick it might as well be all you eat for breakfast. I love trying the weirdest- sounding fruit juices with names I don’t understand.

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Jardim Botanico: as the name suggests, this neighbourhood is located right next to the Botanic Gardens, one of the the top sights in Rio. A short walk away you will find Parque Lage, beautiful palatial mansion representing my favourite migle of the natural, tropical setting and an historical, beautiful architecture (my other top place to see is Vizcaya in Miami). The Christ Rendeemer overlooks the mansion.

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Jardim Botanico has plenty of pretty restaurants such as one of the few French bakeries and breakfast spots: La Biciclette which is a convenient option if Parque Lage’s café gets too busy.

This neighbourhood is also very close to the Jockey Club which also has some good restaurants and Flamengo Stadium, where you can get the team’s tshirts and other souvenirs. The stadium is a short drive to Instituto Moreira Salles, another perfect tropical residence turned into art gallery and café.

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